Rhode Islanders are blessed with the best restaurants in the country. It’s not by magic or by some strange reason.

It’s due to the commitment of families that dedicate their lives to the craft with long hours, no days off, and a constant drive to serve their communities and provide good employment opportunities to people of all ages.

If we think of iconic Rhode Island restaurants, most folks will name Twin Oaks, Wright’s Farm, Andino’s, George’s of Galilee, White Horse Tavern and of course the Cowesett Inn. 

In 1977 during a peaceful time in our country, the Paolucci family went right to work after purchasing the then Carillon Restaurant at 226 Cowesett Avenue in West Warwick.

Then a small neighborhood restaurant with 10 tables and a small bar, the dream of Yola and her late husband Herman has grown to become one of the largest restaurants in the state. After six separate additions and renovations, the space boasts more than 300 seats for dining, and 34 seats at its mammoth, L-shaped bar. 

Under the leadership of son Jimmy for the many years, Cowesett has maintained its position as not only the go-to place for parties (sometimes with live music), meetings, fundraisers and collations for residents in and around the area, but also a “must visit” place for people throughout the state.

And the Cowesett Inn has seen it all in its 48 years of operation, from the Blizzard of ‘78 one year after opening, to the collapse of the economy in 2008 and the most recent pandemic. And on a very sad note, it is located diagonally across the street from the Station Fire Memorial.

There in time of crisis

As we all know too well, on February 20, 2003, the Station fire claimed the life of 100 angels, and injured hundreds of others.  One of the darkest days in our states and nation’s history.  

The Paolucci family showed the nation what West Warwick, and Rhode Island, was made of. 

Jimmy closed the doors for 3 days and turned the restaurant into a triage center for burn victims and the Command Center for first responders and ancillary services.

He also fed everyone for free during that period.

The event took its toll not only on the grieving families and affected communities, but also on his kitchen and wait staff.   

Some couldn’t return due to the horrific event.

One key staffer came back to work after 6 months of counseling but had to leave after a few hours. The haunting never stopped.

Jimmy was praised for his actions, including being recognized by President George W. Bush at the State of the Union speech.  Jimmy was there as the guest of Congressman Jim Langevin. 

Serving the community

Community service is no stranger to Jim Paolucci.

At 19, he joined the Warwick Police Department as a Reserve Officer and served his community for 16 years.

In 1983, he was offered a full-time position in the department, but decided to help his family with the restaurant, which at that time was in the middle of a major renovation.

He never looked back.

But he still pitches in to help his hometown of Warwick on the Board of Public Safety, where he has been a member for about 12 years, serving three administrations.

He is also involved in his beloved Brandi Project.

The project, named in memory of his late rescue dog Brandi, has raised more than $55,000 for animal rescue projects and shelters throughout the state.  It now provides help exclusively to the Rhode Island Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.

He has fundraising events at the restaurant and built a small area near the entrance to sell dog biscuits and merchandise, with proceeds going to the RISPCA.

Back to the Cowesett

As one of the state’s largest restaurants, you have to believe that it wasn’t only the Paolucci family’s dedication that filled the seats, but also great food.

As someone who has been going there since it opened, I have my own favorites, but I asked Jimmy what he thought were the top sellers.

He didn’t hesitate for a moment.

“Baked stuff shrimp, several Italian dishes, pizza (they make their own pizza dough from scratch), and the big, big chocolate cake,” he said.

With 34 seats at the bar, it takes on a whole other dimension.   Kind of like “Cheers” where everyone knows each other (or will shortly) and you never drink alone.

They love coming up with new craft cocktails and many of the bartenders have been there so long that you don’t even have to tell them your order. 

Jim also recently built out one of the front rooms to house his newest venture, “The Market at Cowesett”, which sells specialty and home-cooked products including products from local vendors like Venda Ravioli and the popular Chepachet Cheesecake.

Cowesett Inn is one of those places that every community needs.

It’s a place to go after a son’s or daughter’s graduation, and a place to be during the holidays to see friends and loved ones that you haven’t seen in a while.

It’s a nice break from the chain restaurants that look, feel, and sound the same, regardless of whether you are in another state or even another country.

It just makes you feel at home. 

I asked Jimmy what’s next?

After all, it’s a seven-day-a-week job for him.

On top of that he has two other businesses that he juggles: Green Acres Landscaping and his real estate rental properties in Warwick, West Warwick and East Greenwich.

He said he was thinking of hiring a general manager so that he could take some time off and do a little traveling.

I’ll believe it when I see it. 

I had one last question before we parted ways: What’s a fun event that sticks in your mind after almost 50 years in business?

He laughed and said, “We had a bartender and waitress named Denise who used to bring her kids in once and awhile.  They acted like most young kids do, racing around the restaurant and having fun.

I would catch them, pick them up and carry them around, laughing along with them.

“Fast forward twenty years and the same kid walked in – now a US Marine and about 6’3” tall.  Tossing around was not an option,” he said.

The Cowesett Inn has been called the “Jewel of West Warwick.”.

I hope new generations of folks can continue to enjoy what a real neighborhood restaurant looks like.