At Hemenway’s, elegance is everywhere, from the properly set tables with white linen, silverware and crystal-clean glasses to the neatly dressed and friendly waitpersons who wipe each menu clean before being delivered to your table.

I reviewed Hemenway’s when it opened over 40 years ago when restaurateur Ned Grace had a dream to open a first-class seafood restaurant named after his beloved grandfather.

The restaurant, with its high ceilings, large windows offering stunning views of downtown Providence and cozy raw bar, is one of the most popular in Providence, demanding reservations well in advance.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, its casual elegance is only part of the story. A reminder on the front door suggests “Proper Dress Required.” No tee shirts or baseball caps are seen at Hemenway’s.

Creative menus, with numerous daily specials, offer a superb dining experience.

Don’t expect sea shack prices or buck-a-shuck specials.

Do expect quality food preparation and service.

Warm rolls are brought to the table with individual soft butter dishes glazed with salt. The waitress asks if you want a refill. Rare in restaurants today.

We skipped the tempting raw bar offerings and chose the calamari appetizer. At $18, the official RI seafood was tender and tasty and more than enough for two.

The chef adds the traditional cherry peppers and balances them with arugula, lemon capers and aioli.

We couldn’t help noticing the man next to us who was enjoying a wedge salad with iceberg lettuce, tomato, bleu cheese crumbles, pickled onion and bleu cheese dressing ($15).

I chose the grilled swordfish with romesco, kale pistou, beluga lentils and a roasted cauliflower salad. (An unusual but delightful combination of flavors.) $34

Joyce chose Georges Bank pan-seared, scallops with asparagus spears and parmesan fries. The order usually comes with peas, but Joyce has an aversion to them. Substitution was no problem. ($39) She found the scallops a bit salty, while I did not.

With a full house and people waiting for tables, we were never rushed and were served within a reasonable time.

View their menu online at hemenwaysrestaurant.com. There is take-out service available, plus free parking. Call 351-8570 for reservations—a must.