Sixty vehicles followed the black hearse through Cranston and into the hallowed grounds of Oaklawn Cemetery. Two marching bands in the mournful procession sent haunting notes drifting on the autumn breeze. Fong Tow was dead. Long regarded as the honorary mayor of Providence, the Chinese resident had been embraced by America and lovingly adopted by the people of Rhode Island.

Fong’s father, Chang, had come to this country in 1850 to help build the railroad. After he settled in, he opened a laundry in Pawtucket. Fong was born in 1867 and began managing restaurants in 1897. In May of 1926, he and his son Gong opened The Port Arthur at 123 Weybosset Street, the first Chinese restaurant in Rhode Island. The restaurant prided itself on cleanliness, fine food, prompt and courteous service, reasonable prices, and entertaining cabaret. Special daily lunches were available from 11:30 in the afternoon until 2:30 for fifty cents. Full-course Sunday dinners, which were served from noon until 8:00 in the evening, could be had for one dollar and up.

In May of 1928, Fong and Gong celebrated the restaurant’s one-year anniversary with special dinner selections, entertainment by the Port Arthur Orchestra, and a cabaret show featuring soprano Mildred Mitchell and dance specialist Florence Haley.

The restaurant employed several cooks, waiters, dishwashers, food checkers, and bakers. Located directly across the street from the Narragansett Hotel, The Port Arthur was the largest, grandest Chinese restaurant in all of New England, “catering to ladies and gentlemen of exact taste.” Due to its popularity, reservations were recommended and could be made by calling GAspee 9333.

Diners could enjoy dancing every day except for Sunday. Music for dancing was provided from noon until 2:30, from 6 p.m. until 9 p.m., and again from 10 p.m. until midnight. The entire third floor of the restaurant was elaborately outfitted as a banquet hall and hosted all manner of parties, showers and galas. “Every Day Is a Big Day at The Port Arthur!” their advertisements read. However, the restaurant’s biggest days were undoubtedly those which featured holiday celebrations. Whether Halloween, Christmas, Thanksgiving, or New Year’s Eve had arrived on the calendar, no one staged a celebration like Fong Tow. New Year’s Eve parties consisted of dancing, cabaret, noisemakers, party favors, and a full-course meal for five dollars per person. The party didn’t stop there. New Year’s Day celebrations began at 12:01 with music by the house orchestra and dancing that went on until 3:00 in the morning. A full-course dinner would later be available for three dollars per person. The restaurant’s New Year’s Eve celebration of 1928 included two bands and two dance floors, as well as entertainment by The Ramon Review, Marie Bayes, and Gerald Griffin. 

The Port Arthur’s annual Halloween party began at 9:30 in the evening and went on until 3:00 in the morning. A special dinner, cabaret, and dancing were all included for the $1.50 ticket price. In 1928, the entertainment for the Halloween party came in the form of dancers Marie Carlos, and Morelle & Deroche.

Fong spared no expense in scheduling the best performers in New York and Boston to visit Providence for the purpose of being showcased at The Port Arthur. In May of 1934, Fong celebrated his restaurant’s eight-year anniversary with special luncheon selections priced from 35 to 75 cents and a full-course dinner, served from 5 to 9 p.m., for 60 to 95 cents. Entertainment was in the form of a 10-act floor show as well as dancing to the sounds of Jack Pitman & His Orchestra. Fine beers and wines were available to be enjoyed with dinner.

In 1937, diners who appreciated the “cozy booths and cheerful surroundings,” could be served a baked sugar-cured ham dinner for sixty cents, a broiled live whole lobster for one dollar, a broiled tenderloin steak for $1.15 or a planked steak for $1.10 among the numerous other American and Chinese food selections on the menu. By 1950, the restaurant was advertising the comfort of its air conditioning, their noon floor shows which happened Tuesday through Saturday, and their sixty-cent Businessman’s Lunch.

When Fong died in September of 1935, the whole state mourned the man who had consistently exhibited what hospitality should look like. More flowers than most had ever seen at a funeral were set about the Roger Williams Mausoleum in memory of Fong. At some point, Fong was removed to Pawtuxet Memorial Park in Warwick where he currently rests beside his son.

Kelly Sullivan is a Rhode Island columnist, lecturer and author.