50-ton oven fired up as Pepe's Pizza readies to open

By Pam Schiff
Posted 5/8/18

By PAM SCHIFF Frank Pepe's Pizzeria based out of New Haven, Conn. will open their 10th store on Universal Boulevard in Warwick on May 14. Gary Bimonte, owner of Pepe's has been dealing with permits, construction, and most importantly, getting his 14x14

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50-ton oven fired up as Pepe's Pizza readies to open

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Frank Pepe's Pizzeria based out of New Haven, Conn. will open their 10th store on Universal Boulevard in Warwick on May 14.

Gary Bimonte, owner of Pepe's has been dealing with permits, construction, and most importantly, getting his 14x14 foot oven up to running temperature of 600 degrees and seasoned.

"The oven itself with all the parts weighs close to 100,000 pounds. We can fit approximately 20 pies at once, and each store uses about a ton of coal a week," Bimonte said.

The oven itself is built with bricks, and there is moisture in the bricks and they have to be dried out. It actually takes several months to dry it out. Then they "season" the deck with fat rendering and balls of lard.

"If we didn't do this, the first pizzas would taste like cement," he said. For the special lighting ceremony, Bimonte brought in his long-time friend, and pizza fan Pastor, Mark Turcio.

Turcio is the Pastor at Goshen Hill Church in Lebanon, Connecticut and has blessed all but one of the ovens for Pepe's.

"I've known Gary for 50 years. I've eaten a lot of Pepe's in my time. I would tell anyone trying it for the first time, have the classic Margherita pie. The simplicity of the sauce is mouthwatering. It is the perfect introduction to Pepe's," said Turcio. Who confesses that the clam pizza is one of his favorites.

To those not familiar with Connecticut pizza speak, there is a specific way to order pizza that true New Haveners share with others. You are not simply ordering a pizza, you are ordering ahbeetz. And, the cheese is not mozzarella, in fact it is pronounced mootz. And, to wash it all down, you order a Foxon Park soda, not the other big name drinks.

"Back in 1925, the first Pepe's was called Francesco Pepe Bakery, and it was located in a smaller shop, which is still owned by the family and called The Spot. In 1936 the store was moved to the larger location, where it remains today.

The pizza that has been credited with putting Pepe's on the map, is the white clam pizza.

"In the late 1930's there was a gentleman selling clams on the half shelf in front of the shop from a clam cart, and my Grandfather [the original Frank Pepe] and put it on the pizza and clams on the half shell," Gary said.

Turcio's blessing was heartfelt and meaningful. Asking for the oven to stay hot, the pizzas to live up to expectations, and for all who came to Pepe's to eat in good health.

Like with many family-run businesses, the newer/younger generations have different interests and aren't looking to get into the family business.

"We are using expansion as the way to keep our grandfather's legacy alive," Gary said.

They are looking at two other locations in Massachusetts; Burlington and Watertown.

When pressed for his personal favorite pizza, Bimonte gave the most diplomatic answer. "I never met a Pepe's pizza I didn't love," he said.

For more information on the menu and opening information, check out the web site; pepespizzeria.com.

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