Pachisea has only been opened a month or so, in the locations “where Martinelli’s used to be” in the small Greenwood shopping plaza at 2914 Post Rd., Warwick, just down the road from Greenwood Credit Union and Greenwood Inn.

During the day, Pachisea serves as a takeout deli, caterer and purveyor of my grandson’s favorite sandwich, the Mona Lisa-grilled chicken with roasted peppers and provolone ($7.50).

In the evening, Pachisea turns into a magical dining experience for those who like cooked-to-order, fresh, reasonably priced, authentic Italian gourmet food in an intimate surrounding (about 40 chairs) served by friendly, knowledgeable waitresses.

Owners William Provazza and Chef Gerry Sinotte are there to greet you and pamper you, without being overbearing. The night we were there they seemed to know every person who walked through the door, including our son-in-law and daughter.

After a basket of fresh Italian bread with a garlic butter to die for, we approached the appetizer menu, which ranged from Bruschetta Provazza, grilled garlic bread topped with balsamic vinegar and roasted garlic marinated diced tomatoes, fresh mozzarella cheese and basil ($6.95) to an incredible Antipasto Misto for two that looked like enough for four ($12.95). Try the brushetta!

Snail salad, calamari, clams or mussels zuppa, snail salad and Fagioli Bianchi all fell in the $7.95-$8.95 range and all looked authentically Italian. Pasta, chicken, fish and veal dishes are all created with special sauces and spices, leaving it difficult to choose our entrées. Robin swears she is eventually going to work her way through the menu.

Our plan was to try four different entrées so that I could taste them all, but Mike and I were determined to order the Veal and Peas Julia ($13.95), tender cuts of milk-fed veal braised slowly with fresh herbs, wine and San Marzano tomatoes, tossed with gnocchi. Not being a huge gnocchi fan, the waitress offered linguini in its place. I did try one of Mike’s gnocchi and discovered I liked it. Both meals were cooked and seasoned to perfection.

Robin ordered the Eggplant Parmigiana ($12.95), a hand-breaded eggplant cutlet layered with mozzarella cheese, topped with marinara sauce and served with a large portion of pasta. The plate looked like it could feed the table, and Robin had plenty left for the following day. In addition to gnocchi, I have never been a big fan of eggplant, but I found myself going back for a second taste. It’s all in the preparation!

Joyce ordered the most expensive item on the menu (After all, her son-in-law was paying), Seafood Fra Diavolo Kimberly ($18.95). Prince Edward Island mussels, shrimp, sea scallops, little neck clams, calamari and fresh haddock, simmered in a spicy red sauce served over linguine filled the large plate. She let me taste one scallop, but I’ll sneak some more of the plentiful and tasty seafood when we make a meal out of the leftovers. When Joyce said she could have taken it a bit hotter, chef Sinotte offered to oblige. Of course, the rest of us tasted it and found it just right.

Sinotte was among the first graduating class at Johnson & Wales and has had a long and distinguished career, including cooking at restaurants in San Francisco, plus the Old Canteen and Capprichio’s in Providence. He is happy to be back in Rhode Island and enjoying his family and friends.

We couldn’t even look at dessert, but owner Bill Provazza did have a nice little treat for us…a nice touch. Pachisea has no liquor license, but encourages you to bring your own, with no charge for setups.

Reservations are strongly recommended, as the neighborhood and word of mouth is filling the small restaurant most evenings. We ate early. By the time we left at 7 p.m. every table was taken. For reservations or further information call 736-0005.

Oh, yes, the name. I was about to call the restaurant, after finding no such word in the dictionary or thesaurus, when Robin, who is much smarter than her father, figured it out. Pa (pasta) chi (chicken) sea (seafood).